Managing Director of Bulgari's leather goods and accessories.
What got you into the accessory business?
I'm Spanish, but I've been living in Italy for quite some time now. I spent the first 15 years of my career in general merchandise. After moving to Italy and living in Milan, I directly inhaled the culture of the country and after a few years, I realised that I wanted to work in fashion. It was difficult at the time to change industries, to move into luxury, but in the end, it worked out! And business became my passion.
Did you get into leather goods straight away?
Yes. Initially, I worked with one Italian company, then another, and eventually, I joined Bulgari a decade ago. It's an exquisite brand. Of course, high jewellery accessories are not the main focus here. But that's the beauty of it – to create unique leather goods within a jewellery brand.
Has your perception of Bulgari changed over the years?
No, not at all. My position has not changed since I joined Bulgari and took over the business. However, the brand is continuously evolving and expanding rapidly, especially in our leather goods segment, in line with our strategic direction. Collaboration across all departments is crucial for a cohesive approach. Naturally, each has its own team, and each product has its own story, but we are all closely linked. This is both the challenge and the joy of working for a brand that moves forward and works together. A lot has changed in 10 years, and I think we're at a great point now. We're consistently producing truly distinctive and elevated creations across all areas.
With Bulgari's presence in numerous markets, could you describe the image of the Bulgari woman for whom your products are tailored?
Not so long ago, there were differences in customer tastes in different markets. For example, we used to add separate colours for Asia or the Middle East. But over the last five years, things have become more similar. Partly due to the development of markets where the luxury industry was previously less strong. Consumer tastes have become more sophisticated. We don't see much difference now. Thanks to social media, the world has become so global in terms of tastes.
I believe we are more likely to appeal to a woman with a certain attitude to life. It doesn't matter where she lives. She knows what she likes. A strong personality chooses something special that sets her apart from the crowd. Not everyone feels comfortable wearing something not commonly accepted. Many are closer to the obvious choice. Our woman is independent, makes her own fashion choices, works, and exudes confidence.
The house of Bulgari is primarily a jewellery house, but it has its own handbag production in Florence. Could you tell me more about that?
Since the company decided to invest in this area, we have our own production facility in Florence. We also develop the products ourselves and carry out research, especially for the most refined products, as well as working with suppliers. All of them are based in Florence, we work closely together and monitor quality. Our main objective is to guarantee our customers the best.
Bulgari's handbag fittings are renowned for their intricate jewellery technique. Could you tell us a little about it?
When crafting metal components, especially the Serpenti head, our craftsmen use the same techniques as they do in jewellery making. To do this, we have developed our own and truly similar process. We believe that carrying a Bulgari bag, like the snake model, is akin to adorning oneself with a piece of fine jewellery. Hence, it demands the same level of craftsmanship and quality.
What part of the work is done by hand by craftsmen in Florence?
Our craftsmen meticulously work in an artisanal manner, handcrafting nearly every detail. Even in our exclusive offerings, exotic leather is intricately hand-coloured. Our products are a testament to painstaking craftsmanship, far from being industrially made. This uniqueness becomes apparent when people visit us in Florence. Witnessing the craftsmen at work never fails to astound them. It's a transformation – they begin to see the product through different eyes and realise its worth. It's not just about the price; it's about the inherent value of the creation.
Bulgari's "Serpenti through the eyes of..." collaborations have garnered immense success worldwide. In Azerbaijan, clients frequently pre-order these bags, essentially arriving at the boutique as purchased items. Could you share insights into the process of selecting partners for these collaborations and how these partnerships unfold?
Our first collaboration took place in 2017. Typically, we work with one designer and create one project per year. This anniversary year is different -- we worked with three artists at once. Our goal was an artistic endeavour. Usually, we choose designers based on different criteria, but they all have to bring something to the collaboration that we are looking for. Thus far, our projects have enjoyed considerable success. The designers also bring a lot of creativity and perhaps - that's the most enjoyable thing about working with young talent. They all bring something extremely interesting to the table... their vision.
Is the designer's personality strongly influencing the work? How do they work?
We typically begin by immersing them in our universe – inviting them to Rome and Florence for an extended period, often spending a couple of days in our archives. Everyone has a different approach, but they are completely immersed in our brand. Then they come back with an understanding of what inspires them and present their own ideas. We then engage in discussions to assess and strategize how best to showcase their ideas. However, it's always very interesting to see how differently people see the brand.
What's the hardest part of collaboration?
It's a dynamic synergy we seek – a balance between making the collaboration distinctive yet quintessentially Bulgari. While an idea may be one-of-a-kind, ensuring it embodies the brand's DNA is crucial. Designers keenly listen as we share our brand essence, observing the elements that define Bulgari. Luckily, we haven't encountered any significant challenges thus far. Our collaborations have been consistently successful. Our selection process is meticulous – we ensure the designer genuinely admires the brand, is collaborative, and possesses remarkable talent.
In Azerbaijan, customers cherish both Bulgari jewellery and bags. Might there be an opportunity in the future to collaborate with a local designer or draw inspiration from local hues and motifs for our creations?
We have our own team committed to developing designs. This year our artist collaborated with three artists from Korea, the USA, and China. Yet, the opportunity for designers and themes in our collections extends globally, including Azerbaijan. A designer draws inspiration from everywhere, so it is quite possible that he studies the culture of a certain country. So, why not? Such collaborations are captivating for the brand – it enriches it.
Many people describe something enchanting about the Bulgari green colour, deeming Bulgari a distinct brand, with its green bags notably flying off the shelves…
Emerald is a colour that describes us well as jewellers, in some countries it is even labelled "Bulgari Green". Emerald green is our best-selling hue because of our deep-rooted association with precious gemstones. It is a beautiful green, classic, and timeless. You can easily pair it with any outfit. It's versatile and brings liveliness to the look.
You mentioned how your bag can elevate the sophistication of an everyday look…
Of course, you'll take a Bulgari bag to an evening event or cocktail party... However, it doesn't require a fancy outfit; in fact, it works quite the opposite. We're delighted to see our accessories on people in everyday situations. They bring a touch of sophistication, vibrancy, and elevate one's style and confidence. We believe our bags are suitable for all occasions and styles, imparting a distinctive charm to any look.
