Haute couture is an exclusive fashion event held twice a year in Paris. It is a showcase of fashion as art, where boundaries are pushed and innovation is always evolving. Only the most elite houses, approved by the Chambre Syndicale, are allowed to present limited, handcrafted pieces that focus less on wearability and more on class, mastery, and storytelling. This fall was especially dramatic, with many participating houses undergoing internal changes — from shifts in leadership to celebrating major anniversaries. Here are some of our favourite collections.
CHANEL
For its Fall/Winter 2025–2026 Haute Couture presentation, Chanel offered a quietly poetic collection that stayed grounded in the house’s core identity. Created by the Chanel Creation Studio ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s expected arrival, the collection celebrated Coco Chanel’s love for nature and simplicity. Set in the Grand Palais’s Salon d’Honneur, styled with the elegance of 31 rue Cambon, the show embraced earthy hues from ecru and winter white to moss green and muted browns, evoking the pastoral calm of the Scottish countryside. Tweed reigned supreme, reimagined in feathered, mohair-like textures and decorated with delicate wheat embroidery and soft jewel buttons. While silhouettes remained classic and refined, textures and layering were the focus, adding tactile depth. With no bold theatrical gestures, the collection emphasised subtle evolution, a soft but sure gesture toward a new chapter in the house's story.
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ
Giorgio Armani Privé returned to Paris with a serene but impactful couture collection, once again blurring the lines between structured elegance and effortless femininity. Though the 90-year-old designer did not attend in person, his signature was evident throughout the show. Models graced the runway in sharply tailored jackets, clean silhouettes, and velvet textiles that shimmered under the light, hallmarks of Armani’s refined aesthetic. Structured shoulders and elongated lines hinted at quiet strength, while embellishments were kept controlled: glints of embroidery and delicate sparkle highlighted each piece without overwhelming. There were no grand theatrics, only the quiet confidence of a designer whose hand is steady and unshaken. As always, Armani delivered a masterclass in restraint and sophistication, reaffirming his place as one of couture’s enduring pillars.
SCHIAPARELLI
Daniel Roseberry’s latest for Schiaparelli continued to stretch the boundaries of haute couture with a rich blend of surrealism and storytelling. The collection unfolded with deliberate pacing, beginning with pared-back, sculptural silhouettes that evolved into more elaborate visual narratives as the show progressed. While the brand’s signature anatomical elements were present, they took a subtler form this season, creating intrigue without overwhelming. The dramatic centerpiece was a sculptural piece worn by Cardi B, incorporating surrealist motifs and performance art, a reminder of Elsa Schiaparelli’s theatrical legacy. The collection didn’t lean on gimmicks but focused on emotion, form, and craftsmanship. Tapping into the past while forging a boldly imaginative future, Roseberry reaffirmed Schiaparelli’s place at the intersection of art and couture.
GEORGES HOBEIKA
Though Georges Hobeika’s Fall/Winter 2025–2026 couture show received limited press coverage, the house continued its tradition of timeless elegance through opulent, red-carpet-ready gowns. The designs reflected a romantic, baroque vision of couture, rich in embellishments like beading, pearls, and intricate embroidery. Each garment spoke of glamour without ambiguity, grounded in heritage techniques. While official confirmation of co-creative direction from Jad Hobeika was not publicly announced, the collection suggested continuity, offering modern refinement while staying true to the house’s signature glamour. Sleek styling, pulled-back hair and striking accessories — ensured the focus remained on the garments’ craftsmanship. It was a vision of beauty unshaken by trends, anchoring Georges Hobeika firmly in couture tradition.
MAISON MARGIELA
Glenn Martens made an unforgettable debut at Maison Margiela Haute Couture, shaking the foundations of the season with an emotionally charged, visually intense collection. Known for his directional work at Diesel and Y/Project, Martens brought his love of experimental form and storytelling to Margiela with razor-sharp clarity. Models walked through a theatrical narrative where veiled faces, crushed fabrics, distressed textures, and sheer layering evoked themes of fragility, transformation, and renewal. The show opened with hauntingly minimalist looks, transparent fabrics and raw edges exposed human vulnerability before spiraling into a crescendo of sculptural outerwear, tulle explosions, and deconstructed couture. Rooted in the brand’s avant-garde DNA, the collection merged archival reverence with a contemporary, almost chaotic beauty. More than fashion, this was performance art, a haunting, exhilarating entry point into Martens’ vision for the house’s future.
